It takes real talent to show a collection on the final day of a month of non-stop fashion shows and come up with something that looks totally original. But that is exactly what designer Nicolas Ghesquière did at Louis Vuitton on Wednesday morning.
There was a star-studded front row that included some of the most creative and exciting women working in Hollywood today, there to witness the moment. This year’s best supporting actress Oscar winner Alicia Vikander, who wore a Louis Vuittion dress to the ceremony, had pride of place. And next to her were Ghesquière devotees Jennifer Connelly and Adèle Exarchopoulos. But also Bond girl Léa Seydoux, Selena Gomez, Sophie Turner and Zendaya trekked through the downpour to see the show at the Foundation Louis Vuitton.
When they made it inside the daunting black tent set up in the foundation’s garden, they were greeted by what looked like the ruins of a futuristic pantheon – broken and cracked mirrored columns jutting out of a graphic black-and-white ground. And in that space Ghesquière offered the world a collection that pulled the industry forward in new and unexpected directions.
He continued to explore the idea of neo-futuristic hybrid clothing that mix a healthy dose of sportswear with the polished sophistication of couture techniques and noble fabrics. Remember, this is the man who decided to have Lightning, a character from the Final Fantasy video game to be the star of his Spring 2016 advertising campaign.
Along with the fitted cropped patent leather pants, the sports-jersey-style tops and the sharp-shouldered jackets that are now becoming hallmarks of his work, the designer introduced some welcomed softness into his exacting lineup. This was best represented in a pair of equestrian-themed silk scarf dresses that appeared early in the show and the final four trompe-l’oeil designs that had a shimmering sequined faux dress built on top of a silk base.
Other winning designs included stiff glossy hourglass jackets and a classic black business suit that sexily cracked open with slits to expose the skin. And let’s not forget the Louis Vuitton bags. There were such diverse styles to choose from, as if Ghesquière was saying the future is yet to be written, and everyone can choose their own unique path to take.