The Talking Points of Paris Fashion Week

Le t-shirt féministe de Maria Grazia Chiuri chez Dior, les épaules XXL et la surprenante collection Fenty Puma de Rihanna… Après un mois de défilés printemps-été 2017, le Fashion Month tire sa révérence. Et voici ce que Paris a offert de plus excitant.

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Alber Elbaz’s exclusive interview : « Time away was a beautiful healer »

He just received the Legion of Honour in Paris and is one of the most beloved designers in Fashion. In an exclusive interview, Alber Elbaz, one of fashion’s most beloved designers, opens up about his exit from Lanvin, what he has learned from his almost twelve months away from the fashion grind and what he would like the next chapter in his life to look like.

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What you need to know about Milan Fashion Week

Le front row millénaire de Dolce & Gabbana, les soeurs Hadid et les Teva Versace… Avant de voler en direction de Paris pour débuter la dernière étape du marathon de la mode printemps-été 2017, résumé de la Fashion Week de Milan en 10 points essentiels.

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What you need to know about London Fashion Week

Royals trend, Christopher Kane’s Crocs and Faustine Steinmetz… Here are the 5 take away moments of London Spring-Summer 2017 Fashion Week.

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Who is Willi Dorner, the street artist behind Jacquemus’s latest advertising campaign?

For ten years this Austian artist has traveled the world with his ephemeral art installations. Willi Dorner creates urban artwork where the human form interacts with its urban surroundings in highly unexpected ways. This Fall he teamed up with Jacquemus for one of the most daring and innovating campaigns of the season.

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Zoocide : are the real pigs on this planet its humain beings?

À la fois auteur, photographe et docteur en génétique cellulaire, Matthieu Ricard porte depuis près de 40 ans la kasaya, cette robe couleur safran uniforme des moines bouddhistes. Fidèle à sa vision pacifiste, altruiste et compassionnelle de la vie sous toutes ses formes, il milite corps et âme pour la protection de la nature et des animaux. Nous nous sommes assis avec celui qui réside désormais au monastère de Schéchèn au Népal pour discuter de cette liberté essentielle. Entre raisonnement scientifique et spiritualité, son discours est sans appel.

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Sita Abellán, the new fashion influencer

The career of this Spanish star and Instagram sensation has gone supernova ever since she was spotted by Rihanna, who asked her to become the singer’s partner in crime of the video of her hit « Bitch Better Have My Money. » This season Sita tried her hand at designing. Creating a collection for the young polish brand MISBHV that caused quite a buzz at New York Fashion Week. Portrait of a hybrid muse.

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What you need to know about New York Fashion Week

The Marc Jacobs rave party, the conjoined twin cowboy boots from Hood By Air, the retro fabulous fashion of Area, the collaboration Alexander Wang x Adidas… Here are the 10 take away moments of NYFW.

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The second coming of the star designer

The breakneck pace of the modern fashion industry now has designers sticking with brands rarely longer then a few seasons. But designers like Nicolas Ghesquière or Hedi Slimane have nothing to fear. They have become brand names that today are just as powerful as the houses they represent. They have their own devoted, media savvy clientele who will follow them wherever they go. The world is facing the second coming of the star designer.

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Soko’s interview : « I always had bigger dreams than to remain a little countryside girl »

The actress and singer Soko is about to conquer the world. This fall she has the lead role in two tent pole French films, she is currently working on her third solo album and she is already the muse for brands like Gucci, Chanel and Miu Miu. During a one-on-one exclusive interview, Soko The Cat, talks about how her view of the world changed after the death of her father, why she decided to stop using antidepressants and how her belief in past lives helped her prepare for one of her film roles.

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Who is Erika Cavallini, the Italian designer that everyone is talking about?

Erika Cavallini might still be an under the radar fashion designer in France, but over the past few years in Italy she has become something of a household name. Worn by Kendall Jenner, amongst many others, the clothing created by Cavallini, has a unique mix of Italian classicism and refined sportswear. Its a style that has more and more women around the world flocking to her brand. We had an exclusive chat with the designer.

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Who is the designer behind the dress that Beyoncé wore to the MTV VMAs ?

Last night Beyoncé took the title away from Madonna as the person with the most MTV Music Video Awards in the history of the ceremony. For this auspicious occasion she alighted on the red carpet, with her daughter Blue Ivy, in a show stopping dress by the Italian fashion designer Francesco Scognamiglio. The sea foam green gown was hot off the catwalk of Scognamiglio first haute couture collection on the official French couture calendar. Antidote caught up with the designer.

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Au revoir Sonia

This week Sonia Rykiel passed away at the age of 86. The legacy that she leaves the fashion world, with her positive and empowering designs, is without precedence. Antidote pays homage to this remarkable woman.

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The Freedom Issue : Yann Weber’s editor’s letter

For its fall/winter 2016- 2017 issue Antidote Magazine decided to explore the idea of freedom. In his editor’s letter Yann Weber, the magazine’s editorial and creative director, discusses his choice of photographer Ren Hang, the issue’s broad selection of exclusive content and the leading writers who all came together to examine the many facets of freedom.

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Who is Ren Hang, The Freedom Issue’s photographer ?

Rien ne semblait prédestiner Ren Hang à la réalisation de ce nouveau numéro d’Antidote. Son œuvre, qu’il complète au jour le jour à coups de flashs de son boîtier argentique, se compose principalement de photos de nu, souvent brutes, des corps enlacés, sans artifice. Pour The Freedom Issue, ce photographe chinois de 29 ans s’est essayé à l’exercice de la photographie de mode. Avec l’audace qui le caractérise.

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Pokemon Go could get the Fashion treatment

On Sunday Pokémon Go final went live in France. Already the rest of the western world has been over run by the augmented reality (AR) game and all its fanciful creatures. Who doesn’t want to get their hands on a Pikachu or Voltali?

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Paris Haute Couture FW16 : Maison Margiela’s Military Might

John Galliano is one of those designers whose work is a greatindicator of his current state of mind. On Wednesdaymorning, in the halls of the Hotel des Invalides and steps away from where Napoléon is entombed, he presented one of his strongest and most well-rounded collections since his appointment at Masion Margiela. So John must be in a pretty good place right now.

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Dior’s New Leading Lady

It’s finally official, after 17 years at Valentino and more than 25 years with her creative partner Pierpaolo Piccioli, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided it was time to go solo. It has still not been announced that Chiuri will become the first female fashion designer in the history of Christian Dior, but that is just a formality at this point.

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Paris Haute Couture FW16 : Valentino’s Doomed Romance

In their final collection together as a creative couple designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a fall/winter 2016 Valentino haute couture collection of Shakespearian proportions.

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Paris Haute Couture FW16 : Chanel’s Family Couture

It was family day at the Chanel Haute Couture show on Tuesday. Will Smith showed up with his daughter Willow, Milla Jovovich brought her daughter Ever and Inès de la Fressange’s two equally stunning daughters Nine and Violette d’Urso were also in the house. And in his own way Karl Lagerfeld also brought his family with him. He transported his entire couture atelier to the Grand Palais and populated it with Chanel’s famous “petites mains”, who bring his fashion visions to life.

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Paris Haute Couture FW16 : Dior’s Real World Appeal

Designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux have been a perfect example of grace under fire since they were first thrown into the spotlight at Christian Dior last October after Raf Simons decided to part ways with the house and they assumed interim. As rumors swirled (and continue to swirl) about who would be named the next designer for one of the most prestigious fashion houses in the world, this pair stepped up and produced collections that proposed, if ever so subtly, a contemporary vision of what the future of this industry should look like.

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Paris Haute Couture FW16 : Versace’s Draping Desire

Change was a-foot on the Versace haute couture catwalk on Sunday. Designer Donatella Versace toned down the shimmer and the sparkle and instead focused her creative energy on shapes, using draping to create undulating, curving lines that really celebrated the female form.

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Vetements’ Fashion World Domination

Juicy Couture, Canada Goose and Manolo Blahnik were just some of the brands that took up the challenge of collaborating with Demna Gvasalia on his lasted ready-to-wear collection for Vetements. The show, presented at the Galeries Lafayette yesterday, was on the official French couture calendar. A benchmark move for a brand on the path to fashion world domination.

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All Eyes on Atlein

Antonin Tron has made it onto the short list for the ANDAM first collection prize this year with his nascent brand Atlein. After years spent learning the fashion ropes at Balenciaga the designer has finally set out on his own in hopes of becoming the next Rick Owens or Dries van Noten.

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8 must-see shows from Paris Mens’ Fashion Week

Paris’ menswear week was one filled with upheaval. Aside from the buzz surrounding the possible new designer for Dior womenswear and the shocking result of the Brexit vote, there was also the passing of the iconic fashion photographer Bill Cunningham. His death marks the end of an era for fashion and it reinforces the sense that the industry is in the throws of some fundamental changes.

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Paris Fashion Week SS17 : Lanvin’s Creative Freedom

Change is in the air at Dior. An announcement is expected any day now, revealing the name of the new designer for the brand’s womenswear collections. But on Saturday the only Dior anyone was taking about was the fiery Dior Homme collection that Kris Van Assche presented alongside a massive « Lite-Brite » swirling rollercoaster fun fair set.

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Paris Fashion Week SS17 : Dior Homme’s Anarchy

Change is in the air at Dior. An announcement is expected any day now, revealing the name of the new designer for the brand’s womenswear collections. But on Saturday the only Dior anyone was taking about was the fiery Dior Homme collection that Kris Van Assche presented alongside a massive « Lite-Brite » swirling rollercoaster fun fair set.

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Paris Fashion Week SS17 : Givenchy’s Money Shot

Ricardo Tisci lucked out. Given how much breaking news there was in the world (Brexit) and the fashion universe (the possibility that Dior would soon have its first female designer), his guests had quite a bit to talk about while they waited for over a hour in the hot late afternoon sun for his Givenchy menswear show to start.

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Paris Fashion Week SS17 : The Louis Vuitton Tribe

Whenever Kim Jones returns to his roots he comes up with a winning collection for Louis Vuitton. So when he combined his memories of the time he spent in Kenya as a child, following his hydro-geologist father around the country, with the equality formative years he spent as a young man in London, the result was a collection chock-a-block with covetable pieces. Outfits that telegraphed a more youthful and rebellious energy, without every losing sight of the luxe factor.

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Paris Fashion Week SS17 : Balenciaga’s Religious Experience

On the rooftop of the catholic school Lycée Saint Louis de Gonzague in Paris, under the watchful eye of God above, designer Demna Gvasalia presented the first ever menswear runway show for the house of Balenciaga.

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12 must-see shows from Milan Mens’ Fashion Week

The Milan spring-summer 2017 menswear shows were marked by one dominant idea, that of escape. There was a real sense that designers felt that men were in desperate need of taking some time off to trek out into the wilderness, disconnect or at the very least get their bodies back in sync through some wholesome living.

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Milan Fashion Week SS17 : Green with Envy for Gucci

Although the menswear show that designer Alessandro Michele presented in an emerald green venue on Monday was the final one before the Gucci brand folds the line into its future womenswear presentations, it proved that the Gucci man is still more then capable of standing on his own in terms of creativity and whimsical flair.

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Milan Fashion Week SS17 : Prada’s Fashion Climb

Miuccia Prada is a designer who is always looking for new sartorial heights to climb. And ascend she did with a strong collection that not so much pushed fashion to new peaks as it proved that the designer has her finger on the pulse of fashion.

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Milan Fashion Week SS17 : Marni Menswear Makes its Mark

In a Milan menswear spring-summer 2017 season that is missing quite a few familiar faces in terms of brands showing their collections it was a treat to see the Marni menswear line, which only recently started doing a runway show, really come into its own on the catwalk.

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Fashion Wunderkind Vejas Kruszewski

19-year-old designer Vejas Kruszewski just won special LVMH 2016 fashion prize. This young self-taught Canadian launched his eponymous label after graduating high-school and is probably fashion’s next big thing. Antidote met him.

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Anja Rubik’s interview : « I always trust my intuition »

Top model Anja Rubik’s carreer is an exception. Uncommon icon of an uncompromising industry, she was astute enough to anticipate the need for reconversion. Editor-in-chief of her own magazine called 25, she recently launched her eponymous fragrance. 32-year-old Polish model also designed an exclusive summer collection for Parisian label Iro. Interview.

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Eating Our Young

Il y a une génération, l’industrie de la mode révérait l’expérience. Elle célébrait les indiscutables maestros du style, ces hommes et femmes dont les vêtements reflétaient leurs décennies d’apprentissage en atelier, riches de leur sagesse forgée au fil d’innombrables avec leurs clients. Qu’un créateur se soit formé dans une maison ou une autre voulait dire quelque chose. Et en effet, tous les créateurs avaient mené leur apprentissage jusqu’à son terme. Ça se passait comme ça. À l’époque.

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Cultural Appropriation or Appreciation: Where to draw the line?

Recently cultural appropriation has become a hot button topic. Social media platforms are ablaze with outcry over celebrities, fashion designers and brands continually taking on the codes of minority cultures. But how do we objectively define the boundary between showing appreciation of a culture or blindly appropriating it? The answer isn’t clear cut.

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Behind the Veil : Saudi Arabia Fashion

En 3 ans, elle s’est plus métamorphosée que le Forum des Halles. Passée du statut de vilaine cadette à celui d’icône, Kylie Jenner démocratise le port de la perruque arc-en-ciel, est à la tête d’une entreprise de cosmétiques prospère et relance Von Dutch en solitaire.

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How Instagram changed fashion

Its straight-forward agenda of sharing images and videos has made Instagram the clear winner when it comes to holding a viewer’s interest in an industry that as a whole has been struck with a sort of attention deficit disorder. Fashion blogger BryanBoy followed by more than 600 000 people, and Eva Chen, Instagram’s head of fashion partnerships, met up in New York to talk about all things Insta.

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The New Secret Weapon For Stylists

Forget spending hours looking for looks. Stylists, we introduce you to TagWalk. You’re welcome.

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Consuelo Castiglioni explains the Marni man

Here in an exclusive interview, accompanied by an Antidote Magazine photo shoot of the Marni Menswear Spring 2016 collection, Castiglioni opens up about her menswear, the « see now, buy now » phenomenon and her favorite guilty pleasure.

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Sara Maino : Fashion’s Gold Digger

Dans un pays, tel que l’Italie, où la moindre initiative est paralysée par une mentalité aussi immuable que les ruines archéologiques sur lesquelles il s’est bâti, le monde de la mode s’est mis en mouvement. Alors que les faits d’armes de la vieille oligarchie de la mode se font de plus en plus rares, de nouveaux talents émergent et tendent à éclipser les pères fondateurs.

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Is Leaf Greener Fashion’s bridge to China ?

With her digital magazine « LEAF », which she publishes on the leading Chinese platform WeChat, Greener has become — in just a few years — one of China’s most influential fashion personalities. Courted by leading western luxury houses, she has made a business out of educating her compatriots on the art of fashion while she continues to fight for more creative freedom in her home country, which is still plagued by repression.

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The extinction of the Fashion Critic

The arrival of « see now, buy now » shopping, the end of seasons and the current state of fashion houses a drift without head designers has had ripple effects throughout the industry. Notable fashion critics are starting to question what their role will be in the new fashion world order. Here Christina Binkley, Carine Bizet, Susie Lau, Sophie Fontanel and Fabrice Léonard weight in.

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Vaccarello’s exclusive interview : « I don’t want to be schizo »

With rumors swirling around him that he will soon be named the new creative director of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello sat down with Antidote magazine to talk about his signature brand and what it took, against all odds, to make a name for himself in fashion.

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Intimate and Instant: The New Fashion Sweet Spot

Outre les tourments du débat du “see now, buy now” auxquels fait face l’industrie de la mode, une autre situation complexe semble se dessiner. En mal de confidentialité et obsédée par l’instantané, la mode cherche farouchement son nouvel équilibre. L’éventuelle solution ? Un unique premier rang.

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Alessandro Michele’s exclusive interview : « I’m a fetishist »

In an exclusive interview, Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele opens up to Antidote Magazine about his vision for the brand, his most prized possessions and his fascination with the creepy side of beauty…

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Miu Miu’s Womanly Wardrobe  

Leave it to Miuccia Prada to produce two of the strongest shows of the fashion month. She was the big winner in Milan with her traveling-sailor-inspired show. Here in Paris, on the final days of the collections …

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Moncler’s Swiss Style  

The winter season is always the Moncler Gamme Rouge brand’s happy place. Designing for the cold weather is what this house does best and it showed in this season’s delightful collection created by …

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Louis Vuitton’s Modern Outlook  

It takes real talent to show a collection on the final day of a month of non-stop fashion shows and come up with something that looks totally original. But that is exactly what designer Nicolas Ghesquière did at …

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Off-White’s Pretty Woman Syndrome  

White hot designer Virgil Abloh showed his Off-White womenswear collection for the first time on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar on Tuesday night. Last year Abloh made it all the way to the top eight finalists of the …

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Kenzo’s Cacophony

Following the Paris Fashion Week trend of smaller or more intimate sets for big fashion house shows, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim refrained from presenting their latest Kenzo collection in a giant pavilion or hall …

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Iris van Herpen’s Double Vision  

Once again, with a budget of maybe a tenth of that used by some of the big name brands, designer Iris van Herpen came up with a show concept that was one of the most creative of the entire Paris Fashion Week. The Dutch designer explored …

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Valentino’s Ballet Beauties  

In a direct trickle down from their most recent haute couture show, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a Valentino collection inspired by the world of ballet. To the melodic notes of a baby grand piano…

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Chanel’s Ready to Couture  

At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld transformed the vast Grand Palais into an extra large version of the interior of the real Chanel haute couture salon. In a move to make the larger-than-life fashion experience more intimate, he decided that …

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Sacai’s Embellished Vision  

What is always so appealing in the Sacai shows is that one look is never enough. This goes both for the person looking at one of Chitose Abe’s garments, and the garments themselves, which are …

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Sonia Rykiel’s New Space  

On Monday, Sonia Rykiel’s creative director Julie de Libran decided it was time to leave the safety of the brand’s headquarters, where she has shown her collection for the past three seasons, and open herself up to the bigger …

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Homecoming at Hermès  

The third time was the charm for Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermes today. After two seasons of such quiet, contemplative luxury that the clothing was almost slumberous in the shows, the creative director finally found her groove at …

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Akris’s Wild Style  

A year ago Albert Kriemler created an Akris collection that was fifty shades of gray. Skip forward to today and this time red was where his passion lay.The design explored every shades of the hue on the color wheel from orange all …

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McCartney Doubles Down on Comfort  

Last month at the Oscars one of the most buzzed about dresses on the red carpet was a streamlined tangerine one shoulder number worn by Olivia Munn. It was a Stella McCartney design — and it was fabulous. Part of what made it so…

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Celine’s Twisted View  

Watching the Celine show on Sunday afternoon, it was hard not to read something into Phoebe Philo’s design choices. She even admitted afterwards that she purposefully wanted to create a twisted look to her lineup and that …

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Balenciaga’s New Direction  

Demna Gvasalia means business with his first collection as the creative director of Balenciaga. There was the invitation to the show — a classic, but still chic, business card. Then the venue — a square box …

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Guillaume Henry Heats Up Nina Ricci  

It looks as if Guillaume Henry has honed in on precisely which sort of French woman he want the Nina Ricci brand to embody. She is the one with the long and lean figure who survives on sarcasm and …

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Givenchy Walks like an Egyptian  

There was a lot of speculation about the set of the latest Givenchy show. Some guests saw the zigzagging blond wood walls and immediately thought of a labyrinth. Others suggested a mouse maze. One even went a bit dark and …

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Junya Watanabe’s Geometry Lessons  

Early Saturday morning the fashion world was sent back to school. Junya Watanabe gave them a MIT level class in advanced geometry with a sculptural collection that focused entirely on the power of dimensionality and…

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Valli’s Black and White View  

Giambattista Valli is the kind of designer who makes frothy floral dresses, fitfor women who have highly feminine notions when it comes to their wardrobe. His clothing is never dark or disturbing. It doesn’t try to ask sociopolitical …

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Mugler’s Savannah Style  

“Basically when I started working on this collection, I was in Paris and it was quite cold. So I was thinking about holidays and that got me thinking about a savannah sunset and all its warm colors,” said David Koma in …

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Saab’s Walk on the Dark Side  

The first inkling of the sartorial shift at the Elie Saab show could be found in the thank you notes placed with the show notes. At the top of the list was the news that the live musical performance at…

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Acne raves beyond the sea  

Unless you’re a massive music buff, you’d be forgiven for not knowing The Cramps, the ‘80s Californian punk band who last played a decade ago and who counts Acne Studios creative director…

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Mouret’s Matte and Shine  

Roland Mouret is a designer of two cities. One is London, where he lives and works and the other is Paris, where he shows his figure-hugging feminine collection each season. This dichotomy was plainto see in his most recent collection…

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Ackermann’s Army  

The siren’s voice beaconed to them, calling the models by name, as they appeared on the catwalk, each of them an honored member of Haider Ackermann’s new velvet army, one ready to …

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The thin dark line of Yohji Yamamoto  

Artist Yuuka Asakura, who has been live-painting at the Yohji Yamamoto store on rue Cambon store over the past few days and whose contribution will be celebrated by a party …

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Ungaro’s Contrasting Ideas  

The Emanuel Ungaro show got off to a late start on Friday night. But that’s what happens when a pop star wants to make a diva entrance. As singer Kelly Rowland arrived, a …

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Manish Arora’s Wild West  

Manish Arora’s shows are always a feast for the eyes and a fun fashion moment. But this season he took things to the next level and created a real fashion happening with a smattering of …

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The Substantial Ideas of Rick Owens  

Walking into the cavernous Rick Owens show venue, the surprising vision of a black-clad Donna Karan heading to her seat stopped me short. Even more surprising was the …

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Dior, Always Ready to Wear  

When Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, the dual heads of the Dior design team, presented the brand’s haute couture collection in January, the chief reproach critics had was that the designs hewed too closely to ready-to-wear…

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Lanvin Looks for its Future  

The brief bow that Lanvin’s owner Shaw-Lan Wang took at the end of the show on Thursday night was a bit premature. The collection, which was created by the in-house design team and lead by Chemena Kamali — who only …

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Loewe’s New Luxe  

The latest Loewe collection began with a meditative voice repeating to « breath » and that « the change had already taken place ». Was this some sort of cultish indoctrination tape or a recording taken at an Ashram retreat? Just …

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Chalayan’s Teutonic trip  

Hussein Chalayan is one of those designers, like Rei Kawakubo, whose creations are never, ever just about clothing to wear. He is a deep, emotionally driven man who, with each collection, reveals just a …

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Future Perfect for Paco Rabanne  

The Paco Rabanne brand has always been about looking towards the future. And if there is one place where the future has been warmly embraced, it’s Asia, maybe more specifically Japan, where every kooky techie trend …

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Balmain Goes Incognito  

There was a lot of hide-and-go-seek going on at the Balmain show on Thursday. Before designer Olivier Rousteing even got the show underway the audience was left waiting for a late-arriving Kanye West who, once he finally …

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Redemption’s Rock and Roll Soul  

This season designer Gabriele Moratti decided to take his Redemption brand back to the multicultural microcosm that was Andy Warhol’s Factory. A place where it didn’t matter what you looked like, where you came from or who …

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Lemaire’s Confident Clothing  

When the show started the photographers almost immediately began to howl in protest. The models disregarded them completely, turning their heads nonchalantly left or right. Occasionally they would look ahead, but their …

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Margiela: More Than the Sum of its Parts

There was a magpie mood at the Masion Margiela show on Wednesday where designer John Galliano presented a collection that saw different elements of dress meld together in eclectic ensembles. This form of fashion is …

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Rochas Reins It In  

In an interesting twist, Alessandro Dell’Acqua went in two opposite directions in terms of design for each house he works at this season. For his N21 label, his sartorial choices were more daring and tougher in spirit while at …

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Cedric Charlier’s Modern Mariners  

Cedric Charlier really got his sartorial sea legs this season with a strong collection that took its inspiration from the always chic mariner style. « I started by looking at old photographs of sailors, » said the designer backstage after …

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Dries Van Noten’s Decadent Perfection  

“Passion” exclaimed designer Dries Van Noten after his show as a one-word explanation of the pitch perfect collection he had just presented to the fashion world. It is hard to argue with his point. The lineup certainly had people …

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Courrèges Heats up the Future  

The future. This is the essence of the Courrèges brand. And now, in the hands of Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, the house’s future is also looking very bright. The duo once again brought the fashion world to an …

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Koché Street Kick  

The recent announcement that Christelle Kocher has, for the second time, made it to the semi-finals for the LVMH Prize might mean that the 36 year old designer will soon have to forgot her democratic …

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Shaping Up Jacquemus  

Is it too early to say that Simon Porte Jacquemus is shaping up to be the Martin Margiela of his generation? The French designer, who garnered a special award at last year’s LVMH Prize, has a childlike joie de vivre view about fashion …

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Vaccarello Visits the 80s  

Anyone who lives in Paris will tell you that since the terrorist attacks in November, the energy in the city has felt strange – really off. It’s a mood that Anthony Vaccarello found disturbing on a profound level. To combat it, he used …

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Anrealage Brings The Noise  

Each season the Anrealage show gets it geek on with garments that hard wire a digital component into their conception, transforming each piece into something that looks like fashion from the future. This time designer …

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Stella Jean’s Bright Future  

A fortuitous chance meeting with designer Stella Jean at the start of Milan Fashion Week had me, just days later, sitting in her front row for the first time. After the show was over, the key thought that…

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Armani’s Day to Celebrate  

Giorgio Armani was all smiles when he took his bow on Monday morning. The man certainly had a lot to be happy about. While Europe slept, in Hollywood Armani was the designer that couldn’t be …

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Dsquared2’s Military Mash Up  

Designers Den and Dan Caten kicked off the final day of Milan Fashion Week with a collection that was a unusual hybrid of strong sartorial references. The duo behind Dsquared2 decided to create a …

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Damir Doma’s Singular Style  

Damir Doma found himself in an interesting position. While pretty much every other designer in Milan was sending out brightly colored big graphic patterned shows, even other minimalist brands like…

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Ports 1961’s New Chapter  

In her runway debut at Ports 1961, designer Natasa Cagali seemed to be exploring the concepts of movement and containment. Going with a minimalistic approach, she broke up her outsized garments by …

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Plein’s Party People  

Philipp Plein is one of those people who believes in the old adage that “bigger is better”. Or is it “go big or go home”? Well, you get the idea. He is not an understated designer. His work is about flash, sex and …

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The Madness of Antonio Marras  

The slow decent into insanity was the idea Antonio Marras decided to take on with his latest collection. For any other designer, trying to express this sartorially would have been a tall order. But Marras feels …

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Sander’s Lingering Legacy  

When a brand become synonymous with one style it can sometimes be a burden for a designer to break free of that aesthetic or perpetually find new ways to continue its relevance. This is what designer …

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Ferragamo’s Vital Contribution  

Massimiliano Giornetti proved with his most recent Salvatore Ferragamo show that he is right in step with the young Turks of Milan Fashion Week. His sharp yet riotous collection was as exacting in …

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MSGM’s Sunny Disposition  

Massimo Giorgetti titled his most recent collection “Interlude” and sent a note with his show invitations asking all his guests to abstain from posting any images on social media during the event. Instead …

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Marni Leans into the Curve  

On the last full day of Milan Fashion Week, designer Consuelo Castiglioni wowed a haggard and rain-soaked audience with a Marni collection that beautifully challenged the status quo in terms of proportions …

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Missoni’s Fresh Approach  

Freshness was the word of the day at the Missoni tonight. A new show venue, a casting of up-and-coming models and a collection that broadcast a relaxed vibe made for a very winning combination …

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Dolce and Gabbana’s Fairytale  

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decided that it was high time the industry got a fashion fairytale all its own. The duo put on a show filled with fabled princess archetypes and iconic …

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Gabriele Colangelo’s Homecoming  

When we are young, it is perfectly normal to want to break free from the confines of family traditions and step out of from the shadow of past generations. That separation is also what…

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Bottega Veneta’s Modern Refinement  

Chicissimo! Is that a word? Well, it is now, because how else to describe the refined yet vibrant beauty on display at Bottega Veneta? Tomas Maier created a collection that was both …

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Tod’s Stitched Up Style  

Before the latest Tods womenswear collection could get underway, the fashion pack had to file past a tableau vivant created by the Italian artist Vanessa Beecroft…

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Giamba’s Youthful Rebel  

Sugar and spice and everything nice, that was what Giambattista Valli offered fashion with his latest Giamba collection. A lineup that gave the designer’s own spin on the 80s revival currently inundating Milan Fashion Week.

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Versace’s Female Empowerment  

The gang was all there. Gigi, Kendall, Karlie, Mariacarla, Jourdan and Natasha all walked the Versace catwalk on Friday night. And that was just the tip of the supermodel iceberg. There is …

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Marco de Vincenzo’s Fake Fashion  

It had been a long time coming but on Friday afternoon, after fifteen years working at Fendi, designer Marco de Vincenzo finally presented his first signature handbags to the world.

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Iceberg’s Graphic Offering  

For his sophomore show at Iceberg Arthur Arbesser turned to the dramatic work created by a group of architects that first made its mark in the 1960s, called Superstudio. Their claim to fame is an imaginative use of …

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London Calls to Etro  

Anyone who went to a university in the early to mid 90s got what Veronica Etro was trying to say with her latest collection. Those unforgettable college years where self-exploration had as much to do…

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Emporio Armani’s Electric Dream  

In a surprise move Giorgio Armani produced an Emporio collection that was full of color, bold geometry and eye-catching textural match-ups. Remember Armani is a man who hasn’t met a …

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Fendi Rides a Fashion Wave  

At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld was having a fashion brainwave. His entire collection rode on the crest of undulating waves that stood out like three-dimensional sartorial sentinels on almost every garment …

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Max Mara’s Bauhaus Beauties  

The Max Mara design team name-checked Constructivism, Modernism and Dadaism in the first line of its fall/winter 2016 show notes and also suggested that an energetic uprising of genre-defying women from the 1930s were at …

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Pucci’s Mountain Peak  

What a difference six months can make. Just like his predecessor Peter Dundas with his new gig at Roberto Cavalli the day before, designer Massimo Giorgetti made a concerted effort this season to return to …

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Prada’s Woman in Every Port  

For those who saw Miuccia Prada’s menswear show in January, the womenswear collection she presented on Thursday night felt like a return to the same port she had already visited last month. This is understandable seeing as she …

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Moschino is a Fire Starter  

Jeremy Scott was on fire this Thursday night with a show that was smoking hot. And this being Moschino, it meant the designer’s evening gowns were quite literally puffing out plumes of smoke as the models took their turns on the catwalk.

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Costume National’s Easy New Attitude  

Designer Ennio Capasa was full of surprises on Thursday afternoon. His Costume National show took his brand in a pleasing new direction that reenergized the house with color, new proportions and …

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Roberto Cavalli’s Roots  

After last season’s debut, which was met with a lukewarm reception at best, designer Peter Dundas went back to Roberto Cavalli’s roots with a collection that oozed rock and roll glamour and after-dark allure.

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Fausto Puglisi Tries to Connect  

Fausto Puglisi was feeling nostalgic this season. The Italian designer decided it was time to bring together all the things he loves into one collection. Or as he said after his show on Wednesday night, « it’s all about …

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Ferretti’s Flight of Fancy  

The video backdrop to Alberta Ferretti’s show on the first day of Milan Fashion Week showed the barren winter trees in New York’s Central Park. Nature surrounded by a concrete city, its beauty that much more precious…

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N21 Goes Grunge  

Over the years Alessando Dell’Acqua has built his signature brand on his ability to rework season after season a mix of classic masculine and feminine sartorial staples, twisting their underlying constructs so that his creations…

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Gucci’s Veiled Viewpoint  

During the Gucci menswear show in January, designer Alessandro Michele obscured the catwalk with a smoky haze. Today for his womenswear presentation, he placed a gossamer screen between …

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Calvin Klein- Fashion Rocks  

Francisco Costa continues to be one of the few fashion designers showing at New York Fashion Week that continually evolves the DNA of the brand he represents. From one season to the next …

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Ralph Lauren’s Luxe Ladies  

There were two sides to Ralph Lauren’s sartorial story on the final day of New York Fashion Week. The first was all about chic, comfy and discrete daywear in non-threatening shades of taupe …

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DKNY Pumps up the Volume  

If last season, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne paid homage to New York with their cityscape designs, with their sophomore show they decided it was time to really represent its inhabitants …

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The Instaglam of Michael Kors  

Michael Kors’ stream of consciousness show notes ended with the words « Instaglam…fall 2016 » and that pretty much captured what this collection was all about, clothing that was ready for its social media …

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Hugo Boss’s Chic Curves  

Designer Jason Wu is really starting to come into his own at Hugo Boss. His latest collection was an elegant and architectural ode to the beauty of the undulating line. It made for a stunningly beautiful endorsement …

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Narciso Rodriguez’s New Attitude  

When Narciso Rodriguez opens his show with a roomy pleated wool wrap coat that engulfs the model’s body it is instantly understandable that something major is going on. This is a man who is famous for …

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Coach’s Cheery Clothing  

It was a full court press at Coach where designer Stuart Vevers created a sartorial love letter to all things American on Tuesday afternoon. He got his guests, including Chloe Grace Moretz, Emma Roberts and Ciara …

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Rodarte’s Summer of Love  

The Summer of Love anthem « San Francisco » where singer Scott McKenzie suggests that you « be sure to wear some flowers in your hair » flickered in the mind while watching the latest Rodarte show unfold on …

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Tory Burch’s Equestrian Allure  

Designer Tory Burch drew inspiration for her latest collection from Eric Rohmer’s classic film « L’amour l’après-midi » and blended it with chic equestrian staples. This melange of upper crust 70s sportswear …

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Vera Wang’s Lithe Longings  

The long and lean aesthetic of two 20th century artists gave Vera Wang a strong new direction this season. She turned to the haunting elongated faces in the paintings of Amedeo Modigliani and the stick figure …

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The Row’s Long and Lean Luxe  

Twin designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen invited the fashion set to their New York headquarters bright and early on Monday morning for a friendly get together to present their latest ultra-minimalistic über-luxe collection …

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The Luck of Philip Lim  

Far-flung show venues in New York are the bane of every fashion journalist, editor and photographer’s existence. On Monday afternoon, when the snow started to stick and the roads became slippery, it was designer …

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Fun with Jeremy Scott  

Those who have been traveling hither and thither to one show after another here at New York Fashion Week got a less then subtle sneak peek at all of this season’s Jeremy Scott kooky prints. The Los Angeles …

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Thom Browne’s Reinvention  

This season Thom Browne pulled back a bit on the theatrics and presented a poignant collection that celebrated the beauty of repurposing and renewal. But this being Browne, he viewed his underlying concept through …

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Rag & Bone’s Urban Strength  

Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright doubled down with a great show on Monday night. The pair created a convivial atmosphere at the end of a long and grueling day filled with a number of …

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Carolina Herrera is in Full Bloom  

There is something to be said for being able to never put a sartorial foot wrong. And for wealthy women looking for exactly that then Carolina Herrera has, season after season and year after year, come to …

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A Seafaring Tommy Hilfiger  

It was smooth sailing for the T.H. Atlantic on Monday afternoon. Tommy Hilfiger’s faux turn-of-the-century passenger liner was docked inside the massive Park Avenue Armory in New York. On its top deck, between …

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Public School’s Pulse Racing Show  

Maybe it was because their show fell on Valentine’s Day or perhaps designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne knew they had to up their game this season, but when the first look from their most recent…

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Derek Lam’s Contemporary Cool  

In the show notes of his Fall 16 collection, Derek Lam namechecked Richard Avedon and Alexander Calder as masters in « capturing graphic movement » and Penelope Tree as his stylistic muse. It made for a great combo that …

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Hood By Air’s Latest Trip  

Hood By Air is ready for lift off. Designer Shayne Oliver marked his return to the Big Apple after a few years showing and producing in other European locations with a collection that looked to be partly inspired by …

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Prabal Gurung’s Fairytale Fashion  

Designer Prabal Gurung was feeling in a modern fairytale sort of mood on Valentine’s Day. He kicked off his show notes with the line “this season I take you to a place where magical realism reigns” and that is exactly what …

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Victoria Beckham’s Proportional Response

What defined the Victoria Beckham show on Sunday morning was her rather daring new direction in terms of proportions. She kept to her sporty body con codes, in the shape of form-fitting knitwear updated through the use of …

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Altuzarra’s Time to Shine  

It is time, ladies and gentlemen, for Joseph Altuzarra to have his Oscar moment. The designer has long been beloved by fashion’s most influential followers and has, over the past few seasons, been on quite a creative roll. But now is the…

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Moncler’s Blue Period  

Burrrrrrr and blue were the only two conscious thoughts that could actually crystallize in the mind while watching the Moncler show on Saturday night. Someone had the bright idea that it would be fun to force the fashion world…

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Suno’s Glossy Finish  

The Suno collection that was shown on Saturday afternoon was a bit of a head scratcher. Designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty should always be applauded for their dedication to ethical fashion and their continued support of …

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Lacoste’s street ski style  

Designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, wearing a top with the words « un crocodile » emblazoned on it and a smile on his face, greeted a long line of well-wishers after his latest Lacoste show. « It’s kind of about futuristic ski, but also very cool …

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The Immaculate Jason Wu  

Jason Wu has made finding new ways in which to telegraph a sophisticated well-heeled look his life’s pursuit, without falling into the trap of creating clothing that is too lady-like or polished to a frigid perfection. It’s quite a sartorial …

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Le moodboard de Margaret Howell  

Il y a une différence entre créer de la mode et être dans la mode. Margaret Howell, mieux que personne, illustre à quel point le gouffre peut-être profond entre ces deux ambitions. À mille lieux de la fast fashion et des paillettes, la créatrice…

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Paris Haute Couture #3  

Saving the best for last, the final day of the Paris haute couture shows was jam packed with impressive collections that explored a wide range of sartorial definitions of beauty…

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Paris Haute Couture #2  

Day two of the Paris spring/summer 2016 haute couture season proved itself to be filled with winning collections. Once again we saw the real world encroaching on the direction designers are taking…

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Paris Haute Couture #1  

On the first full day of the haute couture shows in Paris big name brand made concerted efforts to try and modernize couture by bringing it into the real world — with mixed results.

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Versace’s Sporty Seduction  

Somehow it seemed apt that it would be Donatella Versace who brought the sports universe into the realm of haute couture. After all, the toned and tiny designer knows first hand what it takes to maintain a fit figure…

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Paris Menswear #5  

The last day of the very strong Paris menswear shows provided the fashion world with quite a broad spectrum of style choices. From Lanvin’s bad boy cool and Paul Smith’s London lads to Umit Benan’s Japanese inspirations…

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Paris Menswear #4  

On the fourth day of Paris Menswear a few trends could be sussed out from the shows. The duffle coat is turning into the must have outerwear of the season, crimson red is the color to invest in and designer sneakers are still the way to go…

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Paris Menswear #3  

Day three of Paris fashion week included a trio of Asian designer who have become pillars in the fashion world for their avant garde outlook on fashion. In a whole different design registry Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy took on western wear…

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Paris Menswear #2  

The rigor of military attire was explored to different degrees by a number of the designers who showed their collections on the second day of the Paris Menswear shows.

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Milan Menswear Playlist  

Music has always played a key role in transmitting a designer’s vision on the catwalk. In Milan it comes as no surprise that David Bowie’s songs were in heavy rotation. Most poignantly at the Emporio Armani show.

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Paris Menswear #1  

Embellishing or stripping back to essentials, these opposite desires saw designers face off on the first day of Paris’ menswear shows. Lemaire and Raf Simons turned an eye…

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Milan Menswear #4  

On the final day of Milan Menswear two brands with polar opposite sartorial perspectives, Giorgio Armani and Dsquared2, showed their fall/winter 2016 collections. The one thing they did have in common was love and respect…

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Milan Menswear #3  

Day three of Milan fashion week confirmed that one of the top trends to come out of the city is a preference for western inspired attire. Dolce & Gabbana kicked things off earlier this week and today both Gucci’s…

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Milan Menswear #2  

The jam-packed second day of Milan menswear was filled with quite a diverse offering. Buyers were spoiled for choice as there was something pretty much for everyone. But if there was one linking sentiment…

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Milan Menswear #1  

On the first full day of Menswear in Milan designers showed a particular proclivity for embellishments. Fall/Winter collections tend to favor dark hues and thick fabrics, but this season those fundaments were elevated…

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