The recent announcement that Christelle Kocher has, for the second time, made it to the semi-finals for the LVMH Prize might mean that the 36 year old designer will soon have to forgot her democratic fashion show venues for something a bit more regimented.
But until then, we can still enjoy the frenetic energy of her clothing as they power down the corridor of a covered passageway in Paris. Watch while the models push through as rowdy photographers battle with encroaching guests who stand three rows thick to try and get a glimpse of the latest Koché collection as plumes of marijuana smoke waft through the air.
What those luckily enough to be standing in the front row got to see was a collection that was both tender and tough. Velvet patchwork pieces, silk slip dress mash-ups, wide cut denim trousers and an abstract watercolor printed silk crafted from what looked to be oversized photos that was cut into a selection of tops. All of it was constructed with a streetwise handicraft approach that highlighted a designer with a clear vision of what she wants to accomplish.
This was a collection that was not fooling around. Its artisanal craftsmanship was seriously executed with an attention to detail that could only be appreciated if someone was able to slow any of the models down long enough to get a closer look. Remember this is a woman who is also the creative director of the famed Maison Lemairé, which is renowned for its talents at manipulating feathers and flora.
Kocher’s collection was a dynamic mix of high and low. However in the end street savvy won out over sophistication. But that was probably exactly what the designer wanted all along anyway.