There were two sides to Ralph Lauren’s sartorial story on the final day of New York Fashion Week. The first was all about chic, comfy and discrete daywear in non-threatening shades of taupe, brown mocha and truffle. The second was eveningwear that had the clear objective of creating an entrance and keeping people talking.
As soon as Karlie Kloss opened the show looking timelessly sophisticated in a roomy cashmere cardigan, full-cut wool flannel pants and a matching taupe silk cotton shirt, this collection hit a high note of elegance that it held pretty much throughout the show. For his daywear Lauren leaned heavily on the evergreen style of using staple menswear fabrics on his womenswear, cutting a double-breasted suit jacket out of a windowpane pattern cashmere, constructing a patchwork coat or cape out of earthy-hued tweeds and even finishing off a few looks by having the models sport classic men’s business ties.
For evening the designer hit one of this season’s budding trends by using velvet to create a series of goddess plissé gowns. Even more dramatic were a striking baroque jacquard tuxedo jacket and evening gowns in swirling purple and liquid gold, worn rebelliously with thigh high black boots.
This season was all about Ralph Lauren’s woman really pleasing herself and in doing so she radiates a sense of strength and sartorial purpose.