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Photo : Givenchy Atelier.
16/10/2019
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Sous l’impulsion de Clare Waight Keller, la maison française vient de lancer une collection en édition limitée qui transpose l’excellence des savoir-faire de ses ateliers sur des pièces de prêt-à-porter intemporelles et parfaitement coupées.
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Alors que la Haute Couture connaît un regain d’intérêt et infuse les différentes collections de prêt-à-porter, comme pour contrecarrer l’allure streetwear qui s’est généralisée ces dernières années, la maison Givenchy continue de brouiller les pistes en dévoilant cet automne une nouvelle collection capsule baptisée « Givenchy Atelier » qui – comme son nom le laisse entendre – célèbre l’excellence des ateliers au travers d’une série de pièces pensées pour être adoptées au quotidien comme des vêtements de prêt-à-porter. « Fondée sur les codes de haute couture de la maison » créée par Hubert de Givenchy en 1952, cette collection capsule mixte et disponible dès à présent dans une sélection de boutiques Givenchy rend « hommage aux savoir-faire des petites-mains », peut-on lire dans le communiqué de presse.
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Photo : Givenchy Atelier.
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D’une élégance épurée, elle se compose de pièces sobres aux lignes nettes et aux coupes précises comme un chemisier à manches bouffantes et plissées ou encore un pantalon de costume en laine évasé au tombé parfait. Dominée par le noir et le blanc, pour mettre l’accent sur son caractère intemporel, la capsule « Givenchy Atelier » fait la part belle aux tissus luxueux tels que la dentelle, la guipure ou encore le satin et se compose à la fois de tenues de jour et de soirée. Avant tout conçues pour durer, les pièces célèbrent l’héritage et l’ADN de Givenchy en s’appuyant notamment sur le concept des « séparables » inventé par le fondateur de la maison du 3 avenue George V, tout en intégrant les codes esthétiques établis depuis 2017 par Clare Waight Keller, l’actuelle directrice artistique.
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La création de cette nouvelle ligne à mi-chemin entre Haute Couture et prêt-à-porter rappelle d’ailleurs que c’est cette dernière qui a redonné vie à la Haute Couture chez Givenchy, une activité que son prédécesseur Riccardo Tisci avait mise en veille au début des années 2010. Du designer italien, la britannique garde cependant quelques éléments puisés dans le vestiaire sportswear. Ainsi, les nœuds XXL récurrents sur les robes de bal des collections de Haute Couture migrent cette fois-ci sur des sacs à dos tandis que les escarpins côtoient des sneakers montantes façon basketteurs. Une fusion entre une allure sophistiquée et décontractée que l’on retrouve également sur une série de T-shirts et de sweat-shirts à capuche brodés ou flanqués d’un motif étiquette sur lequel le nom de la maison et l’adresse historique de ses ateliers apparaissent soulignés d’un trait rouge, en clin d’œil à la façon dont Hubert de Givenchy signait ses propres dessins. Insuffler de la poésie au prêt-à-porter tout en proposant un luxe silencieux loin de toute ostentation, voilà un pari qui semble ici réussi.
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