Junya Watanabe’s Geometry Lessons
Early Saturday morning the fashion world was sent back to school. Junya Watanabe gave them a MIT level class in advanced geometry with a sculptural collection that focused entirely on the power of dimensionality and…
Valli’s Black and White View
Giambattista Valli is the kind of designer who makes frothy floral dresses, fitfor women who have highly feminine notions when it comes to their wardrobe. His clothing is never dark or disturbing. It doesn’t try to ask sociopolitical …
Mugler’s Savannah Style
“Basically when I started working on this collection, I was in Paris and it was quite cold. So I was thinking about holidays and that got me thinking about a savannah sunset and all its warm colors,” said David Koma in …
Saab’s Walk on the Dark Side
The first inkling of the sartorial shift at the Elie Saab show could be found in the thank you notes placed with the show notes. At the top of the list was the news that the live musical performance at…
Acne raves beyond the sea
Unless you’re a massive music buff, you’d be forgiven for not knowing The Cramps, the ‘80s Californian punk band who last played a decade ago and who counts Acne Studios creative director…
Mouret’s Matte and Shine
Roland Mouret is a designer of two cities. One is London, where he lives and works and the other is Paris, where he shows his figure-hugging feminine collection each season. This dichotomy was plainto see in his most recent collection…
Ackermann’s Army
The siren’s voice beaconed to them, calling the models by name, as they appeared on the catwalk, each of them an honored member of Haider Ackermann’s new velvet army, one ready to …
The thin dark line of Yohji Yamamoto
Artist Yuuka Asakura, who has been live-painting at the Yohji Yamamoto store on rue Cambon store over the past few days and whose contribution will be celebrated by a party …
Ungaro’s Contrasting Ideas
The Emanuel Ungaro show got off to a late start on Friday night. But that’s what happens when a pop star wants to make a diva entrance. As singer Kelly Rowland arrived, a …
Manish Arora’s Wild West
Manish Arora’s shows are always a feast for the eyes and a fun fashion moment. But this season he took things to the next level and created a real fashion happening with a smattering of …
The Substantial Ideas of Rick Owens
Walking into the cavernous Rick Owens show venue, the surprising vision of a black-clad Donna Karan heading to her seat stopped me short. Even more surprising was the …
Dior, Always Ready to Wear
When Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, the dual heads of the Dior design team, presented the brand’s haute couture collection in January, the chief reproach critics had was that the designs hewed too closely to ready-to-wear…
Lanvin Looks for its Future
The brief bow that Lanvin’s owner Shaw-Lan Wang took at the end of the show on Thursday night was a bit premature. The collection, which was created by the in-house design team and lead by Chemena Kamali — who only …