McCartney Doubles Down on Comfort
 

Last month at the Oscars one of the most buzzed about dresses on the red carpet was a streamlined tangerine one shoulder number worn by Olivia Munn. It was a Stella McCartney design — and it was fabulous. Part of what made it so…

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Celine’s Twisted View
 

Watching the Celine show on Sunday afternoon, it was hard not to read something into Phoebe Philo’s design choices. She even admitted afterwards that she purposefully wanted to create a twisted look to her lineup and that …

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Balenciaga’s New Direction
 

Demna Gvasalia means business with his first collection as the creative director of Balenciaga. There was the invitation to the show — a classic, but still chic, business card. Then the venue — a square box …

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Guillaume Henry Heats Up Nina Ricci
 

It looks as if Guillaume Henry has honed in on precisely which sort of French woman he want the Nina Ricci brand to embody. She is the one with the long and lean figure who survives on sarcasm and …

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Givenchy Walks like an Egyptian
 

There was a lot of speculation about the set of the latest Givenchy show. Some guests saw the zigzagging blond wood walls and immediately thought of a labyrinth. Others suggested a mouse maze. One even went a bit dark and …

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Junya Watanabe’s Geometry Lessons
 

Early Saturday morning the fashion world was sent back to school. Junya Watanabe gave them a MIT level class in advanced geometry with a sculptural collection that focused entirely on the power of dimensionality and…

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Valli’s Black and White View
 

Giambattista Valli is the kind of designer who makes frothy floral dresses, fitfor women who have highly feminine notions when it comes to their wardrobe. His clothing is never dark or disturbing. It doesn’t try to ask sociopolitical …

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Mugler’s Savannah Style
 

“Basically when I started working on this collection, I was in Paris and it was quite cold. So I was thinking about holidays and that got me thinking about a savannah sunset and all its warm colors,” said David Koma in …

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Saab’s Walk on the Dark Side
 

The first inkling of the sartorial shift at the Elie Saab show could be found in the thank you notes placed with the show notes. At the top of the list was the news that the live musical performance at…

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Acne raves beyond the sea
 

Unless you’re a massive music buff, you’d be forgiven for not knowing The Cramps, the ‘80s Californian punk band who last played a decade ago and who counts Acne Studios creative director…

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Mouret’s Matte and Shine
 

Roland Mouret is a designer of two cities. One is London, where he lives and works and the other is Paris, where he shows his figure-hugging feminine collection each season. This dichotomy was plainto see in his most recent collection…

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Ackermann’s Army
 

The siren’s voice beaconed to them, calling the models by name, as they appeared on the catwalk, each of them an honored member of Haider Ackermann’s new velvet army, one ready to …

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The thin dark line of Yohji Yamamoto
 

Artist Yuuka Asakura, who has been live-painting at the Yohji Yamamoto store on rue Cambon store over the past few days and whose contribution will be celebrated by a party …

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Ungaro’s Contrasting Ideas
 

The Emanuel Ungaro show got off to a late start on Friday night. But that’s what happens when a pop star wants to make a diva entrance. As singer Kelly Rowland arrived, a …

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Manish Arora’s Wild West
 

Manish Arora’s shows are always a feast for the eyes and a fun fashion moment. But this season he took things to the next level and created a real fashion happening with a smattering of …

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The Substantial Ideas of Rick Owens
 

Walking into the cavernous Rick Owens show venue, the surprising vision of a black-clad Donna Karan heading to her seat stopped me short. Even more surprising was the …

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Dior, Always Ready to Wear
 

When Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, the dual heads of the Dior design team, presented the brand’s haute couture collection in January, the chief reproach critics had was that the designs hewed too closely to ready-to-wear…

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Lanvin Looks for its Future
 

The brief bow that Lanvin’s owner Shaw-Lan Wang took at the end of the show on Thursday night was a bit premature. The collection, which was created by the in-house design team and lead by Chemena Kamali — who only …

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Loewe’s New Luxe
 

The latest Loewe collection began with a meditative voice repeating to « breath » and that « the change had already taken place ». Was this some sort of cultish indoctrination tape or a recording taken at an Ashram retreat? Just …

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Chalayan’s Teutonic trip
 

Hussein Chalayan is one of those designers, like Rei Kawakubo, whose creations are never, ever just about clothing to wear. He is a deep, emotionally driven man who, with each collection, reveals just a …

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Future Perfect for Paco Rabanne
 

The Paco Rabanne brand has always been about looking towards the future. And if there is one place where the future has been warmly embraced, it’s Asia, maybe more specifically Japan, where every kooky techie trend …

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Balmain Goes Incognito
 

There was a lot of hide-and-go-seek going on at the Balmain show on Thursday. Before designer Olivier Rousteing even got the show underway the audience was left waiting for a late-arriving Kanye West who, once he finally …

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Redemption’s Rock and Roll Soul
 

This season designer Gabriele Moratti decided to take his Redemption brand back to the multicultural microcosm that was Andy Warhol’s Factory. A place where it didn’t matter what you looked like, where you came from or who …

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Lemaire’s Confident Clothing
 

When the show started the photographers almost immediately began to howl in protest. The models disregarded them completely, turning their heads nonchalantly left or right. Occasionally they would look ahead, but their …

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Margiela: More Than the Sum of its Parts

There was a magpie mood at the Masion Margiela show on Wednesday where designer John Galliano presented a collection that saw different elements of dress meld together in eclectic ensembles. This form of fashion is …

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Rochas Reins It In
 

In an interesting twist, Alessandro Dell’Acqua went in two opposite directions in terms of design for each house he works at this season. For his N21 label, his sartorial choices were more daring and tougher in spirit while at …

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Cedric Charlier’s Modern Mariners
 

Cedric Charlier really got his sartorial sea legs this season with a strong collection that took its inspiration from the always chic mariner style. « I started by looking at old photographs of sailors, » said the designer backstage after …

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Dries Van Noten’s Decadent Perfection
 

“Passion” exclaimed designer Dries Van Noten after his show as a one-word explanation of the pitch perfect collection he had just presented to the fashion world. It is hard to argue with his point. The lineup certainly had people …

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Courrèges Heats up the Future
 

The future. This is the essence of the Courrèges brand. And now, in the hands of Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, the house’s future is also looking very bright. The duo once again brought the fashion world to an …

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Koché Street Kick
 

The recent announcement that Christelle Kocher has, for the second time, made it to the semi-finals for the LVMH Prize might mean that the 36 year old designer will soon have to forgot her democratic …

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