Kenzo’s Cacophony

Following the Paris Fashion Week trend of smaller or more intimate sets for big fashion house shows, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim refrained from presenting their latest Kenzo collection in a giant pavilion or hall …

Iris van Herpen’s Double Vision
 

Once again, with a budget of maybe a tenth of that used by some of the big name brands, designer Iris van Herpen came up with a show concept that was one of the most creative of the entire Paris Fashion Week. The Dutch designer explored …

Valentino’s Ballet Beauties
 

In a direct trickle down from their most recent haute couture show, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a Valentino collection inspired by the world of ballet. To the melodic notes of a baby grand piano…

Chanel’s Ready to Couture
 

At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld transformed the vast Grand Palais into an extra large version of the interior of the real Chanel haute couture salon. In a move to make the larger-than-life fashion experience more intimate, he decided that …

Sacai’s Embellished Vision
 

What is always so appealing in the Sacai shows is that one look is never enough. This goes both for the person looking at one of Chitose Abe’s garments, and the garments themselves, which are …

Sonia Rykiel’s New Space
 

On Monday, Sonia Rykiel’s creative director Julie de Libran decided it was time to leave the safety of the brand’s headquarters, where she has shown her collection for the past three seasons, and open herself up to the bigger …

Homecoming at Hermès
 

The third time was the charm for Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermes today. After two seasons of such quiet, contemplative luxury that the clothing was almost slumberous in the shows, the creative director finally found her groove at …

Akris’s Wild Style
 

A year ago Albert Kriemler created an Akris collection that was fifty shades of gray. Skip forward to today and this time red was where his passion lay.The design explored every shades of the hue on the color wheel from orange all …

McCartney Doubles Down on Comfort
 

Last month at the Oscars one of the most buzzed about dresses on the red carpet was a streamlined tangerine one shoulder number worn by Olivia Munn. It was a Stella McCartney design — and it was fabulous. Part of what made it so…

Celine’s Twisted View
 

Watching the Celine show on Sunday afternoon, it was hard not to read something into Phoebe Philo’s design choices. She even admitted afterwards that she purposefully wanted to create a twisted look to her lineup and that …

Balenciaga’s New Direction
 

Demna Gvasalia means business with his first collection as the creative director of Balenciaga. There was the invitation to the show — a classic, but still chic, business card. Then the venue — a square box …

Guillaume Henry Heats Up Nina Ricci
 

It looks as if Guillaume Henry has honed in on precisely which sort of French woman he want the Nina Ricci brand to embody. She is the one with the long and lean figure who survives on sarcasm and …

Givenchy Walks like an Egyptian
 

There was a lot of speculation about the set of the latest Givenchy show. Some guests saw the zigzagging blond wood walls and immediately thought of a labyrinth. Others suggested a mouse maze. One even went a bit dark and …