Byline : Jessica Michault
Photo : Willy Vanderperre
Ossendrijver has been giving to Lanvin, and the modern man, for a decade now. This year marks his tenth anniversary at the house and he’s been a consistent fashion force over that time, creating clothing that always find a way to gently challenge sartorially gun-shy men with new propositions that push fashion forward just enough to keep things interesting.
“It is such a hard time in fashion, and in the world in general, I thought ‘what do you do when times are hard?’ For me, you have to be creative. This season I really wanted to be free. To let the boys also feel free. Nothing contrived. No hard concept. I wanted to give. Give as much as I can,” said Lanvin’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver after his show on Sunday.
Dior Homme spring-summer 2017
And this is exactly what he did. With layered looks that melded a sophisticated jewel hued color palette with classic shapes, but in fabric combinations that surprised, Ossendrijver underlined the idea that fashion is really a very personal choice. And that being able to customize it and make it your own was what men really find important today.
To that end he created sleeves that could break open at the elbows thanks to what looked like Velcro inserts or be detached by zippers embedded at the shoulder should the wearer desire it. The addition of skinny scarves, statement belt buckets, an assortment of bird pins and bold printed socks also supported this idea. After all don’t most men try and give their outfits a bit of personality via their accessories?
Dior Homme spring-summer 2017
The clothing was decidedly urban in nature, and continued to explore that London-based, slightly rebellious youth culture that Ossendrijver has a particular preference for. But this time he wove some sunny south of the boarder touches into his city style via rainbow striped shirting, a suede fringed tank top and embroideries on jackets and coats that had a hint of Native America about them.
This show had an eclectic energy to it. It was almost as if the clothing had been accumulated over the years by the models themselves. They felt very real and personal, not precious or purposeful but simply suggestions by Ossendrijver of garments that could slide right into a man’s everyday wardrobe without causing any disagreeable ripples.