Celine’s Twisted View
Watching the Celine show on Sunday afternoon, it was hard not to read something into Phoebe Philo’s design choices. She even admitted afterwards that she purposefully wanted to create a twisted look to her lineup and that …
Balenciaga’s New Direction
Demna Gvasalia means business with his first collection as the creative director of Balenciaga. There was the invitation to the show — a classic, but still chic, business card. Then the venue — a square box …
Guillaume Henry Heats Up Nina Ricci
It looks as if Guillaume Henry has honed in on precisely which sort of French woman he want the Nina Ricci brand to embody. She is the one with the long and lean figure who survives on sarcasm and …
Givenchy Walks like an Egyptian
There was a lot of speculation about the set of the latest Givenchy show. Some guests saw the zigzagging blond wood walls and immediately thought of a labyrinth. Others suggested a mouse maze. One even went a bit dark and …
Junya Watanabe’s Geometry Lessons
Early Saturday morning the fashion world was sent back to school. Junya Watanabe gave them a MIT level class in advanced geometry with a sculptural collection that focused entirely on the power of dimensionality and…
Valli’s Black and White View
Giambattista Valli is the kind of designer who makes frothy floral dresses, fitfor women who have highly feminine notions when it comes to their wardrobe. His clothing is never dark or disturbing. It doesn’t try to ask sociopolitical …
Mugler’s Savannah Style
“Basically when I started working on this collection, I was in Paris and it was quite cold. So I was thinking about holidays and that got me thinking about a savannah sunset and all its warm colors,” said David Koma in …
Saab’s Walk on the Dark Side
The first inkling of the sartorial shift at the Elie Saab show could be found in the thank you notes placed with the show notes. At the top of the list was the news that the live musical performance at…
Acne raves beyond the sea
Unless you’re a massive music buff, you’d be forgiven for not knowing The Cramps, the ‘80s Californian punk band who last played a decade ago and who counts Acne Studios creative director…
Mouret’s Matte and Shine
Roland Mouret is a designer of two cities. One is London, where he lives and works and the other is Paris, where he shows his figure-hugging feminine collection each season. This dichotomy was plainto see in his most recent collection…
Ackermann’s Army
The siren’s voice beaconed to them, calling the models by name, as they appeared on the catwalk, each of them an honored member of Haider Ackermann’s new velvet army, one ready to …
The thin dark line of Yohji Yamamoto
Artist Yuuka Asakura, who has been live-painting at the Yohji Yamamoto store on rue Cambon store over the past few days and whose contribution will be celebrated by a party …
Ungaro’s Contrasting Ideas
The Emanuel Ungaro show got off to a late start on Friday night. But that’s what happens when a pop star wants to make a diva entrance. As singer Kelly Rowland arrived, a …