Before the latest Tods womenswear collection could get underway, the fashion pack had to file past a tableau vivant created by the Italian artist Vanessa Beecroft. It featured an almost unrecognizable supermodel (Karlie Kloss) lying prostrate across a work bench of one of the brand’s artisans.
She, and an assortment of other models who surrounded her, had been pinned into pieces of buttery soft Tods leather. A rather bewildered Tods craftsmen stood amongst them trying to look composed.
It made for a rather odd introduction to designer Alessandra Facchinetti’s collection. But no matter, the real celebration of “Made in Italy” luxury leather mastery could be found in the garments Facchinetti created for fall. The leather biker jackets, dresses, pleated skirts and pants were all beautifully crafted. The use of stitching in contrasting colors on some of the garments highlighted further the idea of construction and resilient design.
The designer also deftly mimicked or referenced the graphic stitch work on printed silk pieces, some tartan wool garments and via the addition of flat fringe tassel appliqué. All of it combining to create a collection that was rich in its research and a solid development on last season’s rocker style show.