What is always so appealing in the Sacai shows is that one look is never enough. This goes both for the person looking at one of Chitose Abe’s garments, and the garments themselves, which are never ever straightforward and always singular in their execution. The Japanese designer conjures up clothing that are hybrid creations with a depth of spirit and a richness of sartorial exploration that make them unique within the world of fashion.
This collection, as a whole, felt super-charged
with ideas. So much so that it was hard to pick any one clear thought out from all that was on offer.
The season explored elements of military garb in the garments, as well as a bit of biker attitude and on trend velvet touches. Abe brought to the table a new play with transparency and an exploration of embellishments that had a sense of movement. It was the surface ornamentation of the garments, that most held the attention this time.
The use of abstract calligraphy patterns made already very busy construction feel even more cacophonous. The same sensation was felt in the pieces covered with a patchwork of flyaway patches that seemed to represent old family crests or military medals. And the addition of taut straps across a pleated skirt or over a voluminous coat, to hold down the movement of the garment, with the ends left to dangle all the way down created a catch and release effect that was just a tad disturbing.
But in the quiet of a re-see, buyers will be able to wade through the abundant offerings of this lineup and find the hybrid gems they know Abe always has for them.