In an interesting twist, Alessandro Dell’Acqua went in two opposite directions in terms of design for each house he works at this season. For his N21 label, his sartorial choices were more daring and tougher in spirit while at Rochas this Wednesday, he pulled back on the overwrought embellishments and exaggerated proportions, which have come to personify the label, for something more controlled if in no way less feminine or romantic.
Dell’Acqua went with long deflated shapes that were given a sense of movement thanks to ruffle embellishments and floaty fabrics. Velvet was another key material the designer employed to instantly give his creation a richness and a sense of opulence. But he used it in a controlled manner, leaving it bare of any additional embellishments.
There were times when the designer got a bit carried away. The vibrant sparkling flower fabric was perhaps a step to far; better were the dark plastic sequins pieces cut in different sizes discs. While the dissonant color palette was oddly perfect with its mustards, pea greens and apricot orange. Dell’Acqua has a great gift for making odd hues play nicely together.
This was a charming collection and one that showed a real development in style for the house.