Prada’s Woman in Every Port
 

Article publié le 26 février 2016

Texte : Jessica Michault
Crédit : Fashion GPS

For those who saw Miuccia Prada’s menswear show in January, the womenswear collection she presented on Thursday night felt like a return to the same port she had already visited last month. This is understandable seeing as she folded in quite a few women’s looks into that lineup. So her collection today felt more like Prada had simple fleshed out those core ideas, giving them more depth and layers.

 

The models, with their undulating finger wave wet hair and crimson lips, were once again given a nautical military rigor, both in the uniform-inspired construction of much of the outerwear but also in the sailors’ hats jauntily placed atop their head. The designer doubled down on this concept by adding the exacting detail of wide lace-up canvas corset belts. The result was an hourglass silhouette that, because the lacing of the corsets was often loose, had a wanton sensuality about it.

The schizophrenic illustrations of artist Christophe Chemin were also carried over from last month’s menswear show. This time Prada brought them into the folds of her lustrous metallic brocade 50s style dresses and skirts, and in doing so, somehow softened any possible obscurely potent meaning. One message that did come through loud and clear, thanks to the multitude of accessories being worn by each model, was the idea of trying to take it all with you, piling on that which is precious, the things you can’t live without and traveling the world with just your heartfelt necessities.

Surely there will be quite a few women who will count this season’s metal ring pierced bags, key chains and long-sleeve knit gloves among the things that they would never willingly part with. Also hard to leave behind will be the velvet dresses covered in conceptual gold beaded constellations, the worn-in denim jackets with frogging details and a pair of boxy fur sleeved coats.

If Prada wanted her customers to journey forth and face the far-off horizons, she has certainly given them a wardrobe that will have them adventuring in the most luxurious of manners.

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