Milan Fashion Week SS17 : Prada’s Fashion Climb

Article publié le 20 juin 2016

Byline : Jessica Michault
Photo : courtesy of Prada

Miuccia Prada is a designer who is always looking for new sartorial heights to climb.  And ascend she did with a strong collection that not so much pushed fashion to new peaks as it proved that the designer has her finger on the pulse of fashion.

But before the fashion crowd could be introduced to her spring/summer 2017 vision of menswear (and her women’s 2016 cruise line up) they were obligated to acclimate themselves to the Prada atmosphere by  running the gauntlet of the brand’s latest perfume launch. After zigzagging back and forth in a labyrinth-like mirrored room with only the scented air to guide them, guests finally found themselves at its center where the bottles of La Femme Prada and L’Homme Prada sat back to back like a power couple about to take on the world.

Prada menswear spring-summer 2017

Once the audience was sufficiently swathed in the scents they were led to the show’s venue where Prada’s latest ultra modern mise en scene consisted of a raised open work metal platform, set a-glow with vibrant streaks of colored lighting. On it models would trek up an inclined catwalk that finished high above the audience’s heads.

The show, surprisingly, had the same underlying concept as last season. Usually Prada likes to explore new creative regions every six months. But the notion of traveling the world and lugging along everything that is precious to you is still holding sway over her. This time she pushed that idea from a sailor voyaging to different ports around the globe to more of an international nomad endlessly on the go. With Prada’s creations being the luxury version of an REI one-stop-shopping store for all your outdoor needs.

Prada menswear spring-summer 2017

This outdoorsy self-sufficiency is popping up significantly in Milan this season. The idea of disconnecting, going off the grid and becoming one with nature is a strong recurring theme. And in Prada’s hands that translated into models wearing lots of nylon windbreakers and slick rain resistant suiting, colorful “spot me in the wild” printed garments, strappy designer hiking sandals and a smattering of vibrant outback hats. All of it was topped off with hulking backpacks that looked as if they might cause the models to topple over, weighed down as they were with a myriad of Prada accessories and footwear meant to be worn in more urban settings.

There was a clear link to Prada’s 90s glory days when the house launched its highly successful Prada Sport line and its nylon backpacks became all the rage in a fashion world dominated by minimalism. However if Miuccia was giving a nod to her past she didn’t lose focus on the future of her house. Her fans might be discovering the four corners of the world next season but they will be doing it in style, and smelling good too, thanks to those new Prada perfumes.

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