Loewe’s New Luxe

Article publié le 4 mars 2016

Texte : Jessica Michault
Crédit : Loewe

The latest Loewe collection began with a meditative voice repeating to « breath » and that « the change had already taken place ». Was this some sort of cultish indoctrination tape or a recording taken at an Ashram retreat? Just when the voice really started to calm the mind, designer Jonathan Anderson’s playful nature was revealed — the recording was a subliminal message to help someone stop smoking, inducing quite a few chuckles from the audience. But the idea that the designer’s work has a cult like following or that a change has already taken place with this collection, isn’t that far fetched.

Anderson upped his game this season and proved that, as good as he is at coming up with quirky fashion (see through plastic pants, broken mirror dresses), he is also absolutely capable of creating refined and elegant clothing, a change of pace and focus that will help this brand find as much success with its apparel as with its accessories.

« It’s more reduced, » said the designer after his show. « I wanted something that was a curated look. That there was this idea of compression and sophistication. »

The collection was ultra chic at its foundation. Fluid handkerchief-hemmed dresses or skirts were worn with fitted shirts pulled in even closer to the body thanks to wide ruché belt, the layering of a camisole on top or a sleek leather bustier.

In fact the entire collection had a beautiful sense of movement. The thick fringing edges, ribbon sleeves and glinting sliver chain overlays on dresses were ways Anderson accentuated the rhythmic stride of the models. While roomy coats and pants furthered the idea of freedom.

But he did not give up his pursuit of cool while on the trail of chic. He just moved it to his accessories and adornments including statement necklaces in the shape of cat faces and flat metal locks, but also big pearl details strung into the waistline of a dress or some embellished leather strips on a malleable skirt that gave the graceful clothing a bit of attitude.

The new Loewe bags also were softer and had a feminine ease about them. In fact, this collection pointed to a designer finally very comfortable in his Loewe skin.

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