Celine’s Twisted View
 

Article publié le 7 mars 2016

Texte : Jessica Michault
Crédit : Céline

Watching the Celine show on Sunday afternoon, it was hard not to read something into Phoebe Philo’s design choices. She even admitted afterwards that she purposefully wanted to create a twisted look to her lineup and that she was attempting to find the stillness at the center of her work. This is an interesting psychological creative state of mind to be in, while persistent rumors that Philo has plans to leave continue to swirl around the house. Something she has, within the company, denied. 

On the runway the collection she proposed had an odd push-pull tension between garments that were languidly long or oversized, and those that hewed close to the body, through hourglass cuts and ruché construction or via the use of stretch fabric. 

This time the tug of war was won by Philo’s more forgiving and free flowing designs. Her flare fluid pants that pooled on the floor has a minimalistic nonchalance. Cocooning XXL knit sweaters and roomy leather coats with extended collars as well as outsized button-up shirts with exaggerated cuffs and collars all had a protective grace about them. 

They looked even more appealing when compared to the designer’s glossy silk dresses with a ruching detail up the front or the slim stretch tops that were layered so that a undulating bulkiness appeared. For a designer known for her female-friendly creations, these designs, even in the best of circumstances, looked more fussy then flattering. 

If stillness was what Philo was after, with this collection she can at least count on people stopping in their tracks when they spot Celine clients wearing these designs. Whether it is with admiration or fascination, there will undoubtedly be a long pause of reflection. 

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