Lemaire’s Confident Clothing
 

When the show started the photographers almost immediately began to howl in protest. The models disregarded them completely, turning their heads nonchalantly left or right. Occasionally they would look ahead, but their …

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Margiela: More Than the Sum of its Parts

There was a magpie mood at the Masion Margiela show on Wednesday where designer John Galliano presented a collection that saw different elements of dress meld together in eclectic ensembles. This form of fashion is …

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Rochas Reins It In
 

In an interesting twist, Alessandro Dell’Acqua went in two opposite directions in terms of design for each house he works at this season. For his N21 label, his sartorial choices were more daring and tougher in spirit while at …

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Cedric Charlier’s Modern Mariners
 

Cedric Charlier really got his sartorial sea legs this season with a strong collection that took its inspiration from the always chic mariner style. « I started by looking at old photographs of sailors, » said the designer backstage after …

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Dries Van Noten’s Decadent Perfection
 

“Passion” exclaimed designer Dries Van Noten after his show as a one-word explanation of the pitch perfect collection he had just presented to the fashion world. It is hard to argue with his point. The lineup certainly had people …

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Courrèges Heats up the Future
 

The future. This is the essence of the Courrèges brand. And now, in the hands of Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, the house’s future is also looking very bright. The duo once again brought the fashion world to an …

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Koché Street Kick
 

The recent announcement that Christelle Kocher has, for the second time, made it to the semi-finals for the LVMH Prize might mean that the 36 year old designer will soon have to forgot her democratic …

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Shaping Up Jacquemus
 

Is it too early to say that Simon Porte Jacquemus is shaping up to be the Martin Margiela of his generation? The French designer, who garnered a special award at last year’s LVMH Prize, has a childlike joie de vivre view about fashion …

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Vaccarello Visits the 80s
 

Anyone who lives in Paris will tell you that since the terrorist attacks in November, the energy in the city has felt strange – really off. It’s a mood that Anthony Vaccarello found disturbing on a profound level. To combat it, he used …

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Anrealage Brings The Noise
 

Each season the Anrealage show gets it geek on with garments that hard wire a digital component into their conception, transforming each piece into something that looks like fashion from the future. This time designer …

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Stella Jean’s Bright Future
 

A fortuitous chance meeting with designer Stella Jean at the start of Milan Fashion Week had me, just days later, sitting in her front row for the first time. After the show was over, the key thought that…

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Armani’s Day to Celebrate
 

Giorgio Armani was all smiles when he took his bow on Monday morning. The man certainly had a lot to be happy about. While Europe slept, in Hollywood Armani was the designer that couldn’t be …

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Dsquared2’s Military Mash Up
 

Designers Den and Dan Caten kicked off the final day of Milan Fashion Week with a collection that was a unusual hybrid of strong sartorial references. The duo behind Dsquared2 decided to create a …

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Damir Doma’s Singular Style
 

Damir Doma found himself in an interesting position. While pretty much every other designer in Milan was sending out brightly colored big graphic patterned shows, even other minimalist brands like…

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Ports 1961’s New Chapter
 

In her runway debut at Ports 1961, designer Natasa Cagali seemed to be exploring the concepts of movement and containment. Going with a minimalistic approach, she broke up her outsized garments by …

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Plein’s Party People
 

Philipp Plein is one of those people who believes in the old adage that “bigger is better”. Or is it “go big or go home”? Well, you get the idea. He is not an understated designer. His work is about flash, sex and …

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The Madness of Antonio Marras
 

The slow decent into insanity was the idea Antonio Marras decided to take on with his latest collection. For any other designer, trying to express this sartorially would have been a tall order. But Marras feels …

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Sander’s Lingering Legacy
 

When a brand become synonymous with one style it can sometimes be a burden for a designer to break free of that aesthetic or perpetually find new ways to continue its relevance. This is what designer …

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Ferragamo’s Vital Contribution
 

Massimiliano Giornetti proved with his most recent Salvatore Ferragamo show that he is right in step with the young Turks of Milan Fashion Week. His sharp yet riotous collection was as exacting in …

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MSGM’s Sunny Disposition
 

Massimo Giorgetti titled his most recent collection “Interlude” and sent a note with his show invitations asking all his guests to abstain from posting any images on social media during the event. Instead …

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Marni Leans into the Curve
 

On the last full day of Milan Fashion Week, designer Consuelo Castiglioni wowed a haggard and rain-soaked audience with a Marni collection that beautifully challenged the status quo in terms of proportions …

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Missoni’s Fresh Approach
 

Freshness was the word of the day at the Missoni tonight. A new show venue, a casting of up-and-coming models and a collection that broadcast a relaxed vibe made for a very winning combination …

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Dolce and Gabbana’s Fairytale
 

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decided that it was high time the industry got a fashion fairytale all its own. The duo put on a show filled with fabled princess archetypes and iconic …

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Gabriele Colangelo’s Homecoming
 

When we are young, it is perfectly normal to want to break free from the confines of family traditions and step out of from the shadow of past generations. That separation is also what…

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Bottega Veneta’s Modern Refinement
 

Chicissimo! Is that a word? Well, it is now, because how else to describe the refined yet vibrant beauty on display at Bottega Veneta? Tomas Maier created a collection that was both …

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Tod’s Stitched Up Style
 

Before the latest Tods womenswear collection could get underway, the fashion pack had to file past a tableau vivant created by the Italian artist Vanessa Beecroft…

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Giamba’s Youthful Rebel
 

Sugar and spice and everything nice, that was what Giambattista Valli offered fashion with his latest Giamba collection. A lineup that gave the designer’s own spin on the 80s revival currently inundating Milan Fashion Week.

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Versace’s Female Empowerment
 

The gang was all there. Gigi, Kendall, Karlie, Mariacarla, Jourdan and Natasha all walked the Versace catwalk on Friday night. And that was just the tip of the supermodel iceberg. There is …

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Marco de Vincenzo’s Fake Fashion
 

It had been a long time coming but on Friday afternoon, after fifteen years working at Fendi, designer Marco de Vincenzo finally presented his first signature handbags to the world.

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Iceberg’s Graphic Offering
 

For his sophomore show at Iceberg Arthur Arbesser turned to the dramatic work created by a group of architects that first made its mark in the 1960s, called Superstudio. Their claim to fame is an imaginative use of …

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