Anyone who went to a university in the early to mid 90s got what Veronica Etro was trying to say with her latest collection. Those unforgettable college years where self-exploration had as much to do with how you dressed as it did what you chose as your major. A time spent defining who you are in the world and what sort of mark you hope to leave on it. Also you can count on playing “Nothing Compares 2 U” by Sinéad O’Connor giving any Generation Xer some serious flashbacks.
“For me, twenty years later, it was about bringing fashion down, to real life. That is why I wanted to show this collection in natural light,” said Etro after her show. “It was also important to me show a personal identity and a freedom of expression.” Etro, who went to college in London and graduated from Central St Martins, beautifully captured the energy of a city that has been defined by its love of creativity and individuality. She did this by lightly layering her dark hued designs and giving them a well-loved, lived-in grace.
The frayed-edged oversized grunge-style sweaters, perhaps stolen from a former boyfriend, the long wool reversible coats in checked plaids worn with long multicolored knitted scarves — maybe a going away gift from grandma —, the silk print dresses that had the regal air, say, of a great vintage piece found in mint condition, all of these pieces felt personal and cherished.
But perhaps is was the biker jackets that best personified Etro’s desire to make this collection connect on a profound level. Each one was a breath-taking example of the finest craftsmanship with their panels of brocade fabric or the addition of painterly floral motifs curling over the leather speaking to the idea of customization.
Rich and insightful, this collection might have started out with Etro looking back at her own past but today it provided her family brand with a bright future.