The Max Mara design team name-checked Constructivism, Modernism and Dadaism in the first line of its fall/winter 2016 show notes and also suggested that an energetic uprising of genre-defying women from the 1930s were at the heart of this collection. That certainly rang true on the catwalk where the dynamic lineup use thick horizontal stripes, bold accent colors and glossy metallic sequins to great effect.
However it was hard not to think of another one-of-a-kind woman artist while watching the show. Not too long ago, Miuccia Prada very memorably put her sartorial stamp on this style and it left its mark on the fashion world’s collective psyche. But that point didn’t take away from the success of this collection.
Often, Max Mara shows tend to be more « fashion » than the real wardrobe staples that eventually end up in stores. Hopefully that will not be the case this time. Even the more daring ideas, such as a full length lustrous gold sequin coat or a pinstripe suit with an insert of leather stripes across the chest, deserve to exist outside of a show setting. Ditto all the great outerwear, from the classic camel coats to the ones that played with matte and gloss materials in bright yellow, green or blue (even the ones that brought all those hues together in one piece and upped the ante with stripes). And you gotta love a pink suit with striped black and white pockets.
This upbeat collection kicked off a jam packed day of shows on the right note, offering classic style with a kick of color and geometric edge.