Anyone who lives in Paris will tell you that since the terrorist attacks in November, the energy in the city has felt strange – really off. It’s a mood that Anthony Vaccarello found disturbing on a profound level. To combat it, he used his winter 2016 collection as his own form of healing. He decided to think back to his time growing up in Belgium and his outsider’s view of Paris, a city that fascinated him and that he now calls home.
The result was a compelling collection filled with subtle 80s references that the designer seamlessly incorporated into his own urban and feminine aesthetic.
There was a wonderful nod to Jean Paul Gaultier in the corsetry details Vaccarello wove into his jackets, short skirts and one seriously fabulous black leather hoodie dress. A touch of Michael Jackson could be inferred in the ripped sequined slim pants or the silver metal mesh armbands. Meanwhile, the perforated mesh pieces were a very sexy homage to Madonna’s outfit from the “Lucky Star” video – Vaccarello showed his without any pesky lace bras. And the wide-shouldered suit jackets, well its hard not to read “80s” into those pieces… although worn sans pants did make them feel current.
But the best thing about his lineup was how wearable almost everything was. The drop sleeve sweater tops, the vibrant « Laura Ashley flower print » dresses and jacket, the high-waisted slim pants, the great fur-lined perfecto coats, the roomy business suit jumpsuit. The list goes on and on.
Vaccarello was able to honor the best elements of the 80s without ever falling into tired stereotypes. In a season when many designers have turned to this era for inspiration, he found an original and organic way for his brand to make it fresh almost as if it was… touched for the very first time.