They walked with precision and presence down the runway, their sculptural velvet wrapped « Pippi Longstocking meets Dr. Seuss » dreadlocks backlit by spotlights to create shadows on the gold and green carpet. Their armor was a selection of sharp epaulet-shouldered coats, slim-fitted jackets and cropped second skin trousers that left plenty of space for the designer’s wickedly witchy pointy-toed boot to make a clear impact. 

To diffuse the austerity in the construction of his pieces, Ackermann was able to soften the blow through the use of crushed jewel-hued velvets. It looked particularly appealing as the colorful front half of the aforementioned pants featuring supple leather at the back. That made it feasible to actual bend and move within the confines of such strict silhouettes. 

He also embedded a softness into his graphic black and white chevron designs by cutting many of them in a fuzzy mohair fabric or by playing up the fitted look thanks to ruffles bursting out the sides of jumpsuits, leaving the torso exposed, almost as if the garment couldn’t take the exactitude any more and needed to break free. Freedom could also be felt in the long silk dresses that had been sliced back so one entire leg was left bare. Shimmer tweet jackets with frayed edging introduced an element of raw grace into the lineup. 

There will be many women who would follow the call to join Ackermann’s army next season. The question remains how many of them will make the cut when it comes to his unsparing silhouette.